Regency Weekend outfits

In October I attended a private Regency "couples" Weekend in Baltimore.  I had long wanted to make the Queen Louise of Prussia spencer, so I did that paired with a bib front day dress out of Swiss dot, and a cranberry velvet bonnet and matching reticule.

(worn again to a Regency tea later in the Fall)

Some have said that Swiss dot fabric wasn't used for dresses in the Regency era, but I don't know... these look Swiss dot-ish to me:

I also made a court dress and train.  Dress is a lovely pre-embellished bridal fabric:

 Hem of fabric was scalloped, embroidered and beaded.  That was lucky!!

My husband had nothing to wear, so I made him a shirt, vest, and wool tailcoat

Pants from Gentleman's Emporium and boots from Shoebuy.com

Blue stripe Regency ballgown

In August of 2015 I attended a Regency ball at Gadsby's Tavern in Alexandria, Va.

I had always wanted to do a dress inspired by the striped dress worn by Mrs. Hurst in the '95 Pride and Prejudice, and I found this blue/silver/black stripe that seemed appropriately dark for mourning, yet in line with the dress I wanted.

(photo from Cosprop exhibit)

I wore my Queen Maud replica tiara (Ebay), my pearl swag necklace from Inthelongrun, and white lace mitts from Last Kiss

Regency mourning dress

As I mentioned, my dad passed away last summer, so when I threw my annual Victorian party (broad costume range of 1800-1918), I made a quick black shadow stripe Regency day dress using the Laughing Moon wrap front pattern #130.  Went together like a dream, which was good because I didn't feel much like sewing.

That's my Fail Cake.  It fell apart, so we put it in a bowl and scooped out portions.  Still tasted great :)

Bonnet from The Bohemian Belle

Early Edwardian Racing Dress

Sorry for the long absence.  My father passed away soon after I made this dress, and then my terminally ill mother moved in with us, so I haven't sewn as much.

Last May, Judy and I attended the Winterthur (Delaware) Point-to-Point races!  We decided to go in costume.  She wore her fabulous new 1920s ensemble and I wore my new 1900s dress with an antique hat.  My dress was a black and white stripe with a black lace overlay, and the collar and sleeves are a sheer cream net over a cotton organza lining.

It was loads of fun!  Picnicking on the vast lawn was great.  Everyone had food and champagne, and people walked around with bottles of champagne sharing with their neighbors.  There was a vintage car show, a vintage carriage parade, and tons of shopping, too.  This year it takes place on Mother's Day, so I can't go, but I hope to go again in the future!

Here's the pattern I used, Butterick 5970 :

Here are some inspiration dresses (https://www.pinterest.com/victoriankat/1900-1908/)

  I even found an original Edwardian dress pattern that is likely the inspiration for this pattern!

Notes about the pattern:  The neck-hole (neckscye??) and collar should be close fitting to my neck, but it's not.  Next time, I'll adjust that.  Also, the forearm sleeve section was WAY too big...should also be close fitting and it was baggy, so I took that in with tucks when I realized it.  Other than that, I was really happy with this pattern!

Pattern review: Pegee of Williamsburg cloaks pattern

I needed an 18th c. short cape to wear with my francaise gown for an event at the end of March. Evenings are still a little chilly, so outerwear is a good idea.  Something like this:

A google search led me to: 

http://www.pegee.com/patterns/ladies_cloaks.html

Perfect!  Yeah yeah I could draft one using online sources, but I hate reinventing the wheel and this is exactly what I wanted.

I bought an old copy probably from the 1980s on Etsy.  It's printed on paper -heavier than the Big Three tissue, but not quite as heavy as Truly Victorian or the new Laughing Moon paperstock.  The directions have a few pictures, but nothing as detailed as Big Three patterns.  Basically, if you've made a cape before, you'll be fine because you know how to fill in the blanks such as clipping seam allowances, etc.  It offers a little information on cloaks of this era such as what each style was typically made of and for what events they were worn.

I made the capuchine view and it was pretty easy.  The hardest part was the pleating on the hood.  I believe there is an error:  Under "sunburst pleats" it says, "...making three pleats folded on top of each other."  For me, it was four pleats folded on top of each other.  Judy also used this pattern and had the same experience.  We either both misunderstood or it's an error.  Not a big deal.

back seam sewn up:

Turned right side out:

I repeated the same steps for the lining and sewed them together.

Here's the hood!

As you can see, it's not very large. You can't put that over a fancy tall hairstyle or wig.  So enlarge yours if you want to use it for such a purpose.  Simple solution!  Next time I will.

For the capuchine, they have 8 extremely narrow pleats to give it a curve around the shoulders.  I changed it to 4 slightly larger pleats because I was using a thicker style lining and it worked out just fine.  

So here it is!  Made of shot purple poly taffeta, quilted black silk batting for lining, black net lace trim, and black moire ribbon for ties.

Sadly, despite lining it with quilted batting, it was just not enough against the bitter cold winds the night of my event.  It was unseasonably bitter cold!  I ended up wearing my modern wool coat with the muff.  Oh well!  Best laid plans and all!

So here it is the next morning before we left to drive home...

Matching muff with rusched trim made using the pattern from The Lady Detalle

Hopefully Judy from Learning To Costume will post her experience making the full cloak version of this pattern!

Royal orders and badges

Making pendants and miniatures has enjoyed a long tradition in the crafting world.  Michaels, AC Moore, and other craft stores as well as dozens of online shops have sold the parts to make them for years, and there are countless websites and blogs dedicated to tutorials on making them.

Here are a few...

Tutorials:

https://www.pinterest.com/dianeuke/diy-tutorials-for-charms-pendants/

http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2012/04/v101-how-to-make-miniature-portraits.html

http://beauty4ashes7.blogspot.com/2015/03/royal-family-orders-round-2.html

Supplies:

http://www.bsueboutiques.com/

https://www.etsy.com/shop/LillyDsCraftSupplies?ref=l2-shopheader-name

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/jewelry-making-beads/

Gwen Stefani in a fabulous miniature portrait necklace

"I Am Who They Were" portrait necklace by Ashley Gilreuth

But I was particularly inspired by the project in Gina's blog "Beauty For Ashes" because I'm obsessed with royalty, Court life, and Court Presentation.  Remember the "Court Presentation" class I gave at Dress U and the court gown, feather headdress and train I made for the Dress U Court Dinner back in 2013? 

 Jessica wearing the practice feathers/veil and train I made while practicing the walk and curtsey (that many of you watched on last season's Downton Abbey!)

My Court dress inspired by that pink dress from The Met

 Well, her "Royal Family Order" recreations were RIGHT up my alley!  I'd been collecting "royal" badges for years whenever I came across them in vintage shops or even Forever 21.

Gina and I were chatting one night and she showed me a portrait pendant she'd made using supplies from her local Hobby Lobby.  I was in love, and she encouraged me to make my own, so I did!

I used these pendants from Michael's and AC Moore, a crystal jewelry connector, a friend's heat gun to remove the cabochons (Thanks, Steve!), some quality ribbon from Dames a la Mode and The Ribbon Store and I got crafting!

(not pictured in supplies, crystal crown pendant I glued to the top of the Alexandra order)

The Met: Death Becomes Her mourning clothes and accessories exhibit

Beth and I share a birthday and Judy's was the 1st, so what better way to celebrate than with a trip to see the mourning exhibit at The Met.  Wow.  I mean WOW.  This exhibit was truly amazing! We descended into the Costume Exhibit...



Well, I now know how I want to paint my living room one of these days.  Love this!

Then we entered the exhibit room itself.  

I want to set the scene for you:  It was very dimly lit.  Not only to protect the fabrics from light exposure, but I suppose to enhance the mourning experience.  Projections of sound bites from 19th c. publications on mourning attire appeared and slowly faded away on the walls while Gabriel Faure's Requiem op. 48, played by the London Symphony Orchestra, played in the background.  The mannequins were placed on plain white platforms with floor to ceiling curtains behind with an ombre effect going from black at the top to white at the bottom.

Now go play that music while you look at my photos of the exhibit.

18th c. Hunting Luncheon

I was invited to an 18th c. Hunting/Traveling themed luncheon in late October, and the hostess requested appropriate hunting/traveling attire.  I grabbed the Nehelenia Redingote pattern, some heavy teal cotton, and got to work!

Since I had, um, expanded a little since I bought the pattern, I had to alter it for a slightly larger figure, which meant I had to alter the collars, too.  I copied the front piece onto craft paper, slashed it in the center of the collar area, spread it to the desired amount, added paper there, and I had my new pattern size.  I also added a tiny amount to a few other seam allowances.  I found the sleeves to be a bit tight in the bicep area, so I added 1/2" there, too.

I also made a Gainsborough hat, a big fichu, and a huuuge cap of doom.  I made up both patterns after looking around the internet for ideas on shape and size.

Downton Dress Re-do

Back in January I made a pink teens evening dress for the Downton Abbey themed birthday party at my house.  The dress was ok, but really plain.  I wanted to wear it again to a Downton Abbey themed cocktail party at a local house museum, and it needed to be spruced up!

I grabbed more of that black lace, some beaded netting, and a rhinestone buckle I had in the stash.

 

There was a costume contest and I won first prize!  So if you have a dress you made that you don't wear because you just don't love it, try re-trimming it.